Controversy about Sambar

Oulu has a number of Indians from the many south Indian States - Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Kerala, Pondicherry and Tamilnadu. When sa discssion started in our local India House the other day, I was surprised to see the fervour of each State member defending the honour of his State with regard to the origin of a good Sambar!

I like a good Sambar, irrespective of which State of the Indian Union I eat it. But I was a bit taken aback by the accusations that were flowing and especially one which I knew was not true. The Keralites, who love their coconut milk, were accused of adding this into Sambar.

So I told my wife that I was going to do a treatise about Kerala Sambars from the works of the Queen of Kerala Cooking, the late Mrs. K. M. Mathew, known as Annammakochamma to us.

Without her cookery column in the Malayala Manorama, the readership of the newspaper would have been restricted to the male chauvanists of the State. :-)

Ever since my grandfather, K. C. Mammen Mappillai, persuaded Annammakochamma, who had attended various cookery classes when she was living in Bombay, to put her skills and knowledge to some use, this great lady did it with a fervour till the very last day of her life.

In a series of blog posts I am going to describe a few of her recipes for Sambar, starting with the making of the Sambar Powder, without which there can be no Sambar - or can there be one?

Wait and see to read all about this in my series!

Recipe for making genuine Kerala Sambar Powder:

Ingredients:

1. 1 bunch curry leaves
   A little gingelly oil
   
2. 1/2 cup Bengal gram dhal (besan)
   1/2 cup tur dhal
   2 desert spoons boiled rice grains
   
3. 1 cup coriander Hara dhania) seeds
   
4. 9 dry red chillis
   
5. 1 desert spoon Fenugreek (methi) seeds

METHOD
Smear some gingelly oil on a hot skillet and fry
the curry leaves, dhals and the rice. Afterwards
broil the coriander seeds, chillis and Fenugreek
seeds. Powder all the ingredients and keep it in
an airtight container.

It is interesting that after this recipe in her book "The Family Cook Book", the First Edition of which was published in December 1987, Mrs. Mathew added this little note:

NOTE: If a little coconut, roasted in ghee, is added to the Sambar, it will enhance the taste and aroma. It should only be added just before the Sambar is taken off the fire.

In the coming weeks, I will be putting up, one by one, all Mrs. Mathew's recipes for all the Kerala Sambars. Hope you enjoy it, so stay tuned.